Boatbuilder

Also ordered the wood for the mast yesterday. Only going to be 30$. Getting it from Ridge Cedar here in Keswick Ridge NB. Will get all 4 sides from one piece of rough lumber 2 x 8 x 16ft. He will rip it into 4 pieces of 1 x 4 x 16ft.

Spent 3 hours tonight figuring out I should have started at the bow end of the toerail and screwed it down first and then bent the toerail as I screwed it on working aft. Mixed up thickened epoxy and glued it down. Also measured and cut the holes for the cowl vents tonight. From my reading of different blogs and the CLC plans it seems they are 4" back from the bow end of the dorade box but in slightly different positions for different builders. I put mine 4" back, and 3" from the outside edge, 2 5?8" from inside edge. Also sanded the starboard cockpit seat, and cut the fiberglass for it. Will wet it out another day!

Spent last night bending the starboard side toerail. Started from the stern end and worked forward. All went ok but the last 8 inches had too much curve to bend. Made it wet, used ratchet straps, and clamped it. Left it overnight.

Had to add this link to YouTube videos of pocketship perfecto for future reference. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=giYUtFamjcU https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=giYUtFamjcU

Yesterday, Sunday, Jan 29th Jim Snow and I ripped a strip for the boat's toe rails. This took a bit of figuring and thanks to Frank Camm who suggested cutting a trial piece out of pine first to get the look right before cutting the expensive mahagony. It worked great. The day before I had spent an hour or so planing the mahagony down from rough lumber to about 7/8th". Thanks to Francis Levangie again for use of his jointer to finish the piece. Now to sand the strip for the toe rails and figure out how to bend and fasten it in place for glueing.

Laid another sheet of fiberglass in the cockpit a couple evenings ago. Now just have to do the other seat, the back of the cabin bulkhead, and the footwell.

Trial fit of bowsprit and tabernacle. Bowsprit is just laid on top of the breasthook so it is not in the proper position. A hole will have to be cut in the bow above the rubrails for its final installation.

Cut out pieces for tabernacle and glued it up. Used 6 of the last 8 brass screws I had for the floors. Used 2" x 6" x 8 ft lumber (spruce) for the bowsprit. Cut it 85" long. Then ripped it 2.5" wide. Glued the two 1.5" x 2.5" pieces together to give one block 2.5" x 3" x 85".

Nice to have Jim Stackhouse here to help lay a piece of fiberglass on the side of the bow.

Used brass screws to fasten together the sides on the hatch cover and then glued down the plywood top with thickened epoxy. Its finished Cut out the groves in the sides of the Hood for these rails to run in.

Spent 4 hours screwing together the companionway hatch cover and gluing the plywood top down. Had to sand the edges of the pine sides to get a good perpendicular flush fit. Pictures to follow.

Here's the pictures for the companionway hatch cover and hood work.

5 hours making sliding companionway hatch cover and hood. Pictures to follow.

Cutting out Port holes and installing flanges on inside.

Glued down the companionway hatch sills.

Doing the Fiberglassing of the topsides. Notice the glued down cabin top has been glassed and the milling of the pieces for the sliding hatch cover has begun.